There was that certain kind of underground-fashion vibe again when models dressed in dark and artistic designs walked down the runway while intense music provided by A-Trak raised the roof. Marjan Pejoski and Koji Maruyama, the masterminds behind Kokon To Zai, sure know how to put on a big spectacle that attracts the creative landscape’s most interesting individuals like Zebra Katz, Delilah and Ambush’s Yoon. Kanye, as a big fan, was expected too. But sadly he didn’t show.
The collection continued where the last one left off, with North-Africa as the main inspiration. The KTZ boys used their mastery of adornment to enhance the neutral-colored pieces with interesting textures like islamic mosaics. It was a very strong collection with elements of armour, leather and horn headpieces in contrast with actually perfectly wearable ladylike pieces like floral bikers and chiffon trains. One could really feel the tribal and traditional northern-african vibes, while the collection itself was very modern. The designers gave traditional Berber jewellery a futuristic and edgy twist.
KTZ effortlessly maintains the position of being London Fashion Week’s most interesting label. While the diversity of designers in London is pretty rich due to many young designers fighting their way in, Marjan and Koji are the designers that solidly arrived in the industry. They have been pushing boundaries and silhouettes for the past few seasons, while many designers in London have risen to the top and fell off again.
Photography and Words by Stefan Dotter for WhiteLies Magazine